Embark on a Culinary Journey to the Heart of the Alps with Pizzoccheri

Nestled amidst the breathtaking peaks of the Italian Alps lies the Valtellina region, a culinary haven renowned for its hearty and delectable dishes. Among these gems, Pizzoccheri stands out as a true icon, a symphony of flavors that will tantalize your taste buds and warm your soul.

A Culinary Legacy Rooted in Tradition

Pizzoccheri’s origins trace back to the humble kitchens of Valtellina, where resourceful cooks transformed simple ingredients into a culinary masterpiece. Buckwheat, a staple of the region’s mountainous terrain, lends its unique texture and earthy flavour to the dish. Tender potatoes and cabbage add sweetness and substance, while a medley of cheeses, including the nutty Valtellina Casera and the sharp Grana Padano, brings an explosion of rich, savory notes.

An Adventure Awaits in Teglio

For an authentic Pizzoccheri experience, venture into the charming village of Teglio, nestled in the heart of Valtellina. Here, at the esteemed La Bettola dei Pizzoccheri, you’ll witness firsthand the culinary artistry behind this beloved dish. Watch as experienced hands transform fresh ingredients into a rustic masterpiece, the aroma of garlic and butter wafting through the air, promising a feast for the senses.

A Tapestry Woven with Freshness and Quality

Resist the temptation of imitations, for the true essence of Pizzoccheri lies in the quality and freshness of its ingredients. Seek out stone-milled buckwheat flour, the finest local butter, and the freshest cabbage you can find. These ingredients, imbued with the spirit of the Alps, will elevate the dish to new heights of culinary excellence.

A Duet with Valtellina Superiore Wine

Complement your Pizzoccheri experience with a glass of Valtellina Superiore DOCG wine, a local gem that mirrors the dish’s earthy elegance. The wine’s complex aromas of blackberries, cherries, and spices intertwine beautifully with the flavors of Pizzoccheri, creating a culinary symphony that will linger on your palate long after the last bite.

A Creation Born from Simplicity

While Pizzoccheri’s ingredients are humble, their transformation into a culinary masterpiece is a testament to the region’s culinary heritage. The dish epitomizes the philosophy of “cucina povera,” where simple ingredients are elevated through time-honored techniques and a deep appreciation for the land’s bounty.

An Invitation to Explore and Experiment

Embrace the spirit of adventure and experiment with different cheese combinations. Try substituting Valtellina Casera with Fontina for a bolder, more assertive flavour, or incorporate a touch of Bitto or Storico Ribelle for a hint of sharp, aged notes.

A Culinary Journey that Nourishes Body and Soul

With its hearty flavours and comforting warmth, Pizzoccheri is a dish that speaks to the heart and soul. It’s a culinary invitation to gather around the table, share stories, and savour the simple pleasures of life. As you indulge in the dish, let the flavors transport you to the rugged beauty of the Alps, where tradition and culinary artistry intertwine to create an unforgettable culinary experience.

Don’t rely on imitation though! As every proper good Italian food, the fab taste does not come only from mixing together the right ingredients but also from the quality and freshness of the ingredients! Buckwheat possibly stone-milled, very fresh cabbage, proper local traditional fat butter are some of the must-have ingredients you must try to source.

Ingredients

Pizzoccheri (450/500 g), potatoes (2), cabbage (possibly fresh), garlic (2 halves), butter (80g) – Bitto/Storico Ribelle  or Grana Padano (40 g), Casera or other half-fat cheese (180 g) 

Optional ingredients: sage (2 leaves), 2 finely chopped leeks

• Pizzoccheri – buckwheat flat ribbon pasta, available in some supermarkets or specialist delis, Amazon as well as several other online shops have some or prepare them yourself, I often use the Italian cooking website GialloZafferano as our “go-to” website. It’s in Italian only but it should be easy to follow or translate.
• Grana Padano – unless you can source some 5/7 years old Bitto or Storico Ribelle
• “Half-fat” cheese. The recommended food is  Valtellina Casera but any similar cheese will do well (in Italy we call the cheese category “latteria”). Please DO NOT use fontina. The BBC Food website recommend it, but it is far too strong for this recipe. I love Fontina but I would not use it for Pizzoccheri.

Method

1. Like you cook pasta bring a pan of salted water to the boil (10g per litre), add the potatoes chopped in small squares, wait for 2 minutes and then the cabbage (and the optional leeks)

2. After 4 minutes add half of the pizzoccheri, stir well and then add the other half.

3. In another pan melt the butter adding also the garlic (and the optional sage).

4. Warm gently a large pan and start melting some cheese in it. Check the cooking time of your pizzoccheri and reduce the heating of the pan. 

5. Drain the pizzoccheri, cabbage and potatoes with a slotted spoon. Add part of them to the pan with the cheese. Then add other “half-fat” cheese and keep going between cheese and the rest until you finish both of them. At this stage, I would add on top the bitto before covering it with a table cloth and keep resting for a minute or two allowing the cheese to melt properly. An old tradition consists of putting the pan with the pizzoccheri over the pan with hot water to keep them warm.

6. Remove from the heat, stir in the parmesan and the butter/garlic. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve.

Enjoy this dish with the warm melting cheese and a good glass of red wine!